DISPATCHES FROM THE FARMRSS

Organically-minded Master Chefs

Wednesday, July 14, 2010
We recently received the latest newsletter from BFA / ACO, our organic certifier and amongst other articles of interest, was a small piece about the growing curiosity top chefs are showing towards organic produce. We know from our own experience that more and more chefs are trying to source local, organic produce and where possible the colourful, tasty array of heirloom or heritage varieties that some of us small scale artisan producers are growing. 


Rainbow Chard varieties - open pollinated heirloom plants
A member of the Swiss chard family, (so is 'silver beet'),
rainbow chard comes in several different colours and like all the most
colourful vegies, is rich in antioxidants and more glamorous in our daily meals.



'Russian Red' Kale - - open pollinated heirloom plants

On the June 18 episode of MasterChef, award-winning baker, Michael Klausen, used Kialla Pure Food organic flour as his preference for his demonstrated creation and it seems, according to Holly Vyner, BFA's general manager,  that Australia is "following a trend identified in the US by the American Culinary Federation (ACF) earlier this year, which revealed organic produce would be one of the “hottest” fine dining trends in 2010 because of better taste, nutrition and environmental sustainability". Apparently, 73% of the 1,800 professional US chefs voted in support of this. 


Some of our other heritage veg. on display at a farmers' market
- Scarlet Globe radishes, purple bok choi & baby caulies.
 
Like other small-scale organic growers we talk to, at Angelica Organic Farm, we grow these unconventional varieties as much as we can because these traditional food plants retain the fullness of flavour inherently acquired over the ages of their existance. They look beautiful, are enjoyable to cultivate and eat and of course we are helping to conserve genetic diversity. The more colourful and shapely vegies and herbs do look so inviting on the dinner plate for sure, whether you're a home cook or a professional!


Angelica O.F. open-pollinated lettuces

The mass produced hybrid varieties most commonly grown commercially, are bred to prioritise 'perfect', predictable shape, size, and toughness for ease of packing, extensive transport and often long term storage. They are often picked green or bred to ripen slowly as well. All of these forced genetic manipulations come at the expense of diversity, good flavour and optimal nutritional value. Poor soils and synthetic fertilisers and pesticides also do nothing to enhance flavour and health giving properties!




Purple Opal Basil - heirloom herb

Also sited in the BFA article, the 2009 Sydney Morning Herald Chef of the Year, Justin North of Becasse restaurant in Sydney, favours the quality and flavour of certified organic produce over conventionally grown food, organic food satisfying changing consumer preferences, as observed in his professional experience. 
``As a chef, I have the responsibility to choose ingredients carefully [and] it is still freshness and quality that has driven us to source organic produce,’’ he said.


A mosaic of our heritage tomatoes grown last summer/autumn.

A long time personal favourite of ours is British 'wunder kind' chef Jamie Oliver, who has been championing organic, artisanal, heritage foods and cruelty-free-reared meats for yonks now. A little while ago, I read a BBC biog. on Jamie on the Organic (Lmt) site and Jamie was quoted as such: "I am a great lover of organic food, and always try to give my kids organic food as I want the best for them, like so many parents" and "I want to cook with the best ingredients and have food the way it should be: healthy, tasty and grown with nature." We have also heard his Melbourne Fifteen restaurant source as much local, organic produce as they can. Thanks again for your ongoing leadership and inspiration Jamie and crew! :)

The spectacular Quay restaurant on Sydney harbour, really puts their 'rubber to the road' where organic, heirloom produce is concerned, reported as growing much of the restaurant's premium produce on their own organic farm in Blackheath in the Blue Mountains. Quay also sources ethically grown rare breeds of pig, lamb and chicken. These animal species would actually die out if not bred for consumption. Quay's world renowned chef, Peter Gilmore is inspired by a nature based philosophy to cuisine, which is centred on the idea that we can save and protect diminishing or rare plant and animal species by eating them - it sounds a bit ironic or odd perhaps to some but in reality this attitude is a very effective way to fight back against the greedy multinational 'food Nazis' and protect natural diversity of species and our birthright to food choice and safety!  (I went to primary school with Peter...after all these years, I recognised him on MasterChef...I was gob-smacked to see him and delighted to see he'd done so well AND is an environmental conservationist to-boot!!) 


Angelica Organic Farm Produce April 2010

Australia's small producers, who are committed to innovation and environmental conservation are also now being nationally recognised and celebrated in the food media. The ABC Delicious Magazine Produce Awards (formerly Vogue Entertaining & Travel Produce Awards) have encouraged Australian small producers, premium food regions and seasonal food produced with integrity since its inception in 2005. We feel proud to be rated as finalists with our beloved garlic for this year's award, and it is nice to be recognised in such a forum as judged by widely revered chefs and food critics, who are broadcasting their genuine value for food provenance and growing methods. We are also rapt to 'fly the flag' for organics within a national competition and up against top conventional producers - we sincerely hope it helps make sustainable food production mainstream.
  


The winners of the 2010 Produce Awards will be announced in the August issue of ABC delicious magazine released on July 20, 2010. We will be attending the presentation night at Melbourne's much celebrated Circa next Monday evening. Matt Wilkinson, Circa's head chef, is another very creative chef who really 'walks the talk', supporting local Aussie farmers directly, he loves to use the best each season has to offer and seeks the top producers for their unusual, ethically grown, premium ingredients, as well as incorporating heirloom herbs and vegetables grown in the restaurant's own kitchen garden. We are very excited about visiting Circa, as it's been on our list for a while now.

I have to wonder whether Australia is "following" the US or whether our interests merely pop up on the radar once a "US trend" is noted in the media? In any case, there are many more quality chefs with an increasing commitment towards supporting Australian farmers, particularly organically grown, non-factory farm raised food, too many to mention here.
Several we've met and supply express their excitement about reconnecting with the real seasonality of food and the direct source of their 'stock in trade'...they find organic, in-season, heritage ingredients inspiring to work with and to be able to offer their guests. They tend to also see their use of these products as a means to contribute positively and meaningfully to society, environmental conservation and future food security.  

Even though we realise restaurant dining and culture isn't high on everyone's priorities and by no means is the be all and end all of 'good food' or the enjoyment of quality food, it does have a far-reaching audience and influence, often even with those who do not frequent acclaimed eateries. For this publicity we are greatly pleased, as it is partly generating growing awareness of and movement towards reconnecting with our food sources, promoting sustainable food production and fair trade with our farmers, authentic consumer choice and hopefully the preservation of a healthy, diverse food culture for future generations to grow up on and enjoy. 

I even read in last Sunday's (July 11 2010) article by Wendy Hargreaves for the Sunday Herald Sun's 'Sunday Food' section that channel Ten's top-rating MasterChef program is being credited with inspiring children to cook AND to eat vegies, as well as more at-home family cooking and shared meal times- if this is so, it's one  very positive spin-off effect, effecting a very wide audience potentially. 





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